Generally speaking, the arrival of a new chain restaurant is unlikely to get a city’s foodies a-tweetin’ and a talking. Frankie and Benny’s for example. Who even knew there’s one in the Omni Centre? So, it’s with a slightly heavy conscience that I have to admit I was looking forward to Wagamama opening here in Edinburgh. Glasgow’s had a branch for almost 10 years, and my love of gyoza means it’s a popular choice for a quick lunch when I’m through there.
The burgh’s spanking new branch is on Lothian Road, on the site of the old BoS on the corner at Castle Terrace. Dining partners for the night were Emily (former Londoner, frequent Wagamama go-er) and Louise (Waga-virgin) and we headed along on a chilly mid-week December night. I knew to expect a bit of a queue at the door, but I was mightily impressed at how well this was organised by the manager. Within 10 minutes we were taken to our allocated 3 bum spaces at the shared tables. I’ve no issue at all with the whole ‘communal’ dining thing, quite like it in fact. I do find, however, seating that’s fixed to the floor rather irritiating. What if you’re a fattie or a skinny and the ‘presumed’ optimal distance from the table doesn’t suit? Anyway, none of us slipped underneath, nor were jammed in, so we were fine.
The menu is mostly Asian or in some respects FauxAsian, with lots of Japanese, Chinese and Thai -inspired noodle & rice dishes and flavour combos. Portions certainly never shy, but the prices were a fair whack higher than I seem to remember previously. That said , the £20.90 for a bottle of Prosecco was great value.
We started with the essential bowl of edamame (soya beans in their pods) to share, but yikes, I did think £4.10 was kinda steep. The pea-popping addictive fun did keep me happy though. Love those salty little bad boys. Chicken gyoza for me, little steamed Japanese dumplings with a puckery ginger and soya sauce dip. Emily was delighted with her sticky pork ribs with BBQ sauce. I’m not usually a ribs fan (see also: drumsticks, chicken wings) but hot-diggity, these were tasty eating. Louise had the chilli squid with peppery togarashi sparkle dust, and a sweet coriander dip. All in, the small dishes were faultless, and the service quick quick quick.
This is one of those places where food arrives as it’s cooked and ready, rather than in a formal starter/clear/main course/clear type of order. The big bowls were next up, and I have to admit, it had taken us a wee while to work out way to choosing what to go for in the first place. Udon, ramen, soupy style, stir-fried. Unless you have a ‘favourite’, it’s a lot to choose from. My ‘Itame’ was a giant bowl of coconuty, lemongrass and chilli spiked soup, with plenty of chicken, pak choi and beansprouts to keep the belly happy. It did have the amazing qualities of being almost literally never-ending. I felt like I had been slurping away for months, and even managed to share some of the broth with Louise to pour over her rather dry chicken teriyaki dish. All chicken and sticky rice and a pile of raw carrots and pea shoots in a deep bowl, but with nothing to really bind the dish. I think Emily had the Kare Lomen, pretty similar to my dish actually, but with different noodles.
With a plan to head along to Hyde Out for some cocktails, we skipped the limited dessert menu here. The bill was a reasonable £70ish including the bubbly. The curiosity-factor will keep this place busy for the opening months, and no doubt their easy style of fresh, tasty and quick food will rightly appeal to many. Whether its a super-authentic taste of the Far East is up for debate. Nevertheless, I’ll always enjoy some tasty gyoza, a few edamame and remain grateful that I’m neither a fattie nor a skinny.
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