From the March edition of Bite Magazine, this review can be found online here.
The Apartment is all grown up. A restaurant I first met 10 years ago, its easy vibe and relaxed dining options suited those (like me) looking for an affordable place to eat out. Today, ‘bistro’ has been tagged on to the name, and they’ve had a re-vamp. Interior, menu and all.
We began with mixed olives and bread, and I had a feeling we were in for a good night when we were brought some top quality gordal and kalamata olives. We munched away whilst trying to decide what to order. Eventually, I selected one of the day’s specials – pork belly with scallop and winter chanterelles, and Graeme went for the smoked haddock risotto with poached egg.
Mine was an elegantly presented dish, the giant pan-seared queenie was sweet, and contrasted with the saltiness of the pork belly. The meat was soft and topped with crunchy criss-cross crackling. G’s choice just trumped it, as it was a plate of food that was so comforting it felt like a cuddle. The joy was in the balance of this dish: haddock that wasn’t too pungently smoked, creamy rice and a perfectly runny poached oeuf.
Another special for my main course, roast haunch of venison with parsnip mash, vanilla-braised celery and pickled walnuts. The melting pink venison and the sweet root vegetable mash paired up for a wonderful winter dish. I wasn’t sold on the celery though. Not quite braised enough, and with an at-odds bitter taste.
G’s skirt steak (a more economical cut) had been cooked so quickly it was still sizzling when it arrived. Though the meat gave the gnashers a little more work than some cuts, it was so full of flavour that it was worth it. Teamed with sautéed mushrooms and chunky chips, this was a hunger-pleasing bistro classic.
To finish, I had a pear frangipane tart with crème anglaise. The pastry was excellent however the filling could have been a tad more almondy. Mr. G picked the berry sorbet with Russian vodka, which we were surprised to find were served as two separate entities. After the punchy meal he’d had, this was not only a sweet treat but a tangy palate-cleanser.
We left happy, well fed, and looking forward to The Apartment’s next 10 years.
The bill: £78 inc wine & dessert wine.
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