From January 2011’s Bite Magazine – The review can also be found online here.
Braving the economic and literal winter of our discontent, Hyde Out has pitched up at Edinburgh Quay, and is guns-blazing in its ambition to impress as the new star of the bars. On a chilly night, Louise and I rushed in for warmth and post-work treats.
On first reading, the menu doesn’t quite jump out as brazenly as some of the place’s design features. Having heard their chef is Swiss, we considered a retro fondue, however, fearful of a cheese-coma we instead started with a selection of the light bites (3 plates for £10). First up, mini spiced vegetable tarts with a crunchy, crisp pastry and a smoky tomato-based filling. Next were the langoustine scampi, tender and served with a cornichon-packed tartare sauce. Lastly the soy and sesame beef skewers. Chunky bites of beef sporting a char-grilled outer, were soft pink in the middle, and kicking with flavour from a ginger and chili marinade.
Mindful of the blizzard-like conditions outside, we’d decided on ‘proper’ main courses (£14.50 each) to keep our strength up, rather than burgers or salads. I had roasted duck breast with pickled oranges and roasted new potatoes. The plump duck breast was cooked, like the beef, to pink perfection and the orange segments brought the classic ‘à l’orange’ flavour. On the down side, the roast potatoes were more like chips, and it was an odd decision to serve the dish without any sauce. Lou’s tuna steak was further evidence of chef’s mastery on the grill, served as requested just-cooked and rare. Accompanied by crisp beans and baby corn with Asian dressing, there was also wasabi-flavoured panko breadcrumbs, which were fun to eat and kind of like peppery space dust.
A high standard from the kitchen, but I do have a slight gripe about the slate plates. Nice designer touch, but imagine ‘nails on chalkboard’, bring it to the table, and that’s how it felt every time knife touched slate. Ouch!
To prepare for our journey home, we went for a calories-boosting chocolate fondue (£6), Louise convincing me of its health benefits thanks to the mountain of accompanying fruit, and finishing with Iain Burnett chocolate truffles. Add in some cocktails, and we decided that we’d found a top place to hide out that evening.
Sounds good. I heard about the new place, went past and stuck my head in; wasn't impressed. It seems they may well be worth a second chance.
Hi Paul
Cheers for the message. It’s a huge place so easily does seem quite empty- the bar upstairs is fab, and there’s a killer terrace that’ll really come into its own over the summer.
Definitely give it a try & let me know how you get on.
Cheers
Leila