As you may know, Mel the owner of Edinburgh’s pickledgreen recently got in touch to ask if I’d help out with writing the monthly newsletter for their website. I was delighted to have been asked, and didn’t hesitate in agreeing to take on the task. The last time I had dinner at Pickledgreen was back in March, just a few months after their opening, so it was good to head in again to see how things were going. This is definitely a place that’s settling in to their stride, as we had a great dinner. I hadn’t taken any photos of the food last time I was here so this entry is going to be more of a pictorial one. You’ll be able to see the quality of the food for yourself. Go macro setting on that Fuji camera!
To start ,the Silver Fox had a summery linguine with courgette, broad beans, julienned runner beans and sweet bright green peas. It had just a nice sprinkling of parmesan and black pepper to season, and this light touch really did the lovely veggies a favour, as the fresh tastes of each could be picked out with each bite.
A doubled-up portion of this would have made a great main course too.
I saw a carpaccio of venison on the menu and knew that was for me – something I’ve never tried before, but I’m a huge fan when it’s done with beef. This was an interesting one, for sure. There was a good peppery seasoning on the outside of the meat, but it was that the flavour was so soft and silky, was the biggest surprise. I’d definitely been expecting it to have been a lot more ‘gamey’ . A sweet/sharp raspberry dressing brought out some of the meatiness, and I got a kick when I saw the size of the caper berries; fat little things they were. This was also a significant dish for me, as I’d managed to shun the ham hough terrine -for once- thus breaking my usual habit for starters- go me!
Speaking of habits, the Silver Fox seems to be gettin’ into odering salmon – bless his socks – probably as it’s one fish that I really don’t have a taste for and so rarely cook at home unless on the BBQ. With a pan-seared crispy skin, inside, this fish was a pale pink colour – none of the super bright dyed oranges of some that you see. To satisfy my ‘ I must try everything’ mantra, I had a taste and have to say it was pretty good. A funny looking little deep-fried oyster beignet topped the dish and I think the consensus was that I prefer oysters on ice rather than cooked.
Having gone all tribal with a raw meat starter, it made sense to try out a vegetarian main course, and I was so glad I did. Memories of this dish might be galvanised into legend-status soon. It was quite simply a cherry tomato and caramelised red onion tart, accompanied by a rocket and pea salad, and some mash. I don’t know exactly how , but the combination of thin crisp pastry, cooked sweet tomatoes and the onion was just totally spot on. I could have easily eaten another two of these (one for starter, one for dessert) and my palate still wouldn’t have been bored. All I can say is go and try it. In no way did I miss not having a meat/fish main course. I noticed also that the menu now offers a selection of ‘side’ dishes such as salads, artisanal breads, and chips, which was a notable absence the last time I’d been. And ok, I have to admit it. We also ordered chips. Twice cooked and really good. Quote of the day from the fella: ‘Ye only need ketchup for bad chips, eh?’ So true. Suffice to say, we didn’t touch the flip-top of Heinz.
On to puddings. Now, unusually, my wee camera hasn’t really done pudding No. 1 much justice, but you’re looking at a slinky chocolate and hazelnut parfait with basil-poached peaches. On the plate, dots of sweet peach syrup, and intriguing basil syrup. All I can say is that basil + sugar = something rather special, and should definitely be tried. I’ve been growing some of the often fickle herb in our back garden, and am now getting some new ideas of how to use up the surprisingly huge crop that we’ve ended up with. Mr Fox had the cherry and almond tart, which was brilliant, and coupled with the success of my main course tells me they really have a talented pastry chef in the kitchen.
This set us up well for a night of Festival Fringe-ing, and we left behind a restaurant with that unmistakable ‘August in Edinburgh’ buzz.
Leave a Reply