Review of One Square at The Sheraton for Bite Magazine

The very stylish One Square at The Sheraton seems like an aptly titled spot for my first review of 2014. The night we went in, The Silver Fox and I were met with a hospitable welcome through to the relaxed bar for a pre-dinner tipple. The bar is gaining renown for its stellar selection of gins, and rightly so. Our luscious cocktails had us querying the cocktail maestro for the skinny on the recipes.

Once seated in the dining room which has a wide-screen view of Edinburgh castle, we  set about making selections from the extensive all-day menu. Head Chef Malcolm Webster has put some tempting top-notch Scottish ingredients on show, so making a decision is that bit trickier. My appetite was happy with my choice of monkfish ‘scampi’ (£10), a crunchy crumb kept the succulent white fish moist inside, and zingy lime-spiked mayo completed a plate of joyfully simple eating. Speaking of joy, The Fox was in raptures over his dream ‘breakfast at dinner’; a skillet with classic Macsween haggis (£9), heady woodland mushrooms & a runny sunshine-yolked duck egg.

Although tempted by the flat-iron steak, I decided to opt for the most elegant-sounding lamb Wellington, with spiced carrot purée and burnt leeks (£19) whilst Mr chose Highland venison with kale, parsnip, cocoa nibs and damsons (£23). Although not sold on the herb duxelle, the lamb was a great take on a classic dish. Tender pink meat wrapped in flaky pastry, the deep jus  perfectly offset by sweet carrot purée and the charred sweetness from the leeks. Across the table, Mr’s venison dish (again, perfectly cooked) was a triumph, with a balance between game, the pleasing fruity notes and wintery vegetable plate-fellows.

To finish, my fella had a serious version of a layered Eton Mess, with chocolate & cinnamon meringue, soft poached pears, dark chocolate mousse & coffee ice-cream (£7). From the ‘Frozen Twists’ section (translation: ice-cream!) I picked a ‘Cranachan’ themed option, a sundae featuring  raspberry jam ice-cream, porridge oat ice-cream, Irn Bru & honey sorbet, Drambuie syrup (£7.50) and an intensely-flavoured raspberry tuile. I was surprised at how well all the subtle flavour notes were defined, contrasting with the sharper berry elements, and particularly enjoyed the oaty ice-cream.

With slick but equally friendly service, flexible dining and such carefully presented food, One Square really is worth a visit.